Chrysler Radiant Fire (R87/PRB) Touch Up Paint

The Look

This shade is the quintessential red of the nineties and early aughts, a period when Chrysler leaned into bold, high-visibility colors for its flagship cruisers. It defined the look of the Sebring Convertible as it cruised coastal highways and gave the Plymouth Laser a sharp, aggressive edge that stood out in any parking lot. Because your Cirrus or Sebring has likely spent a decade or two exposed to the elements, this color carries a lot of history. It is a pure, energetic red that avoids the complexity of modern oranges or maroons, sticking instead to a classic fire-engine aesthetic that still looks modern on a well-kept body.

Technical Details

This is a solid finish, meaning you do not have to worry about metallic flakes settling at the bottom or creating stripes if your technique is slightly off. The lack of flake makes it easier to blend, but solid reds come with their own set of rules. Red pigments are naturally more translucent than colors like white or black, so you might find that it takes a few extra coats to fully hide a dark primer or a deep scratch. You should also keep in mind that older red paint tends to oxidize, often taking on a slightly milky or pinkish tint over time. If your original paint has faded, the fresh application may appear deeper and richer than the surrounding area until you polish the rest of the car.

Best Practices

Before you spray or dab Chrysler Radiant Fire (check for code R87/PRB), you need to shake it for 60 seconds to ensure the heavy red pigments are evenly distributed. You will find the paint code printed on the vehicle identification sticker inside the driver's side door jamb, though on some older models, it might be stamped onto a metal plate located on the radiator support bar under the hood. Always test the color on the included card to verify the match against your specific level of fading before touching the actual car. When applying, keep the container moving to prevent the paint from pooling or running. If you are working in a garage or under some shade, apply several thin layers rather than one thick one, allowing plenty of drying time between each pass to build up the necessary depth.