2000 Alumacraft Touch Up Paint (6 OEM Colors)

The 2000 Alumacraft Vibe

Welcome to the Y2K era, where we all thought the world would end, but the only thing that actually crashed was the shine on your gunwales. By the year 2000, Alumacraft was leaning hard into that "high-tech" millennium aesthetic. Whether you were rocking a Tournament Sport or a Navigator, it was all about the metallics. We've focused our collection on the survivors of this era-the heavy hitters like Sand Metallic and Silver that defined the turn of the century. Back then, if your hull wasn't shimmering in the sun while you chased walleye, you just weren't doing it right.

Paint Health Check

We are deep in the Peeling Era here, folks. By 2000, the industry had fully committed to the basecoat/clearcoat system to get those fancy metallic flakes to pop. It looked like a million bucks on the showroom floor, but twenty-plus years of UV rays have likely turned that clear coat into a flaky, white mess. This is the era of "Delamination"-where the clear coat decides it's had enough of the basecoat and starts lifting like a bad sunburn. If you see your Dark Blue or Red finish looking "chalky" or starting to flake off in sheets, you've got clear coat failure, and it's only going to get worse once the water starts getting underneath.

Restoration Tip

The golden rule for 2000-era paint? Seal those chips immediately. Because this is a layered system, a single rock chip on the trailer ride home is an invitation for moisture to get between the color and the clear. Once that bond is broken, the clear will start to lift for inches around the wound. If you're touching up a spot, don't just "blob" the color on. You need to lightly feather the edges of the peeling clear with a fine-grit paper (think 800-1000) before applying your touch-up. This "locks" the edges down and prevents the surrounding factory clear from continuing its slow-motion escape from the hull.