2013 American-Coach Touch Up Paint (12 OEM Colors)

The 2013 American-Coach Vibe

In 2013, the American-Coach line-spanning legends like the Eagle, Tradition, and Revolution-was the undisputed king of the "Executive Land Yacht" aesthetic. This was the era where RVs stopped trying to look like campers and started trying to look like private Gulfstreams. The color palette we've preserved from this year reflects that high-altitude sophistication. You had the "Beige Brigade"-Cashmere, Elegant, and Parchment Gold-which were masters at hiding three states' worth of road grime while still looking like a million bucks under the campground lights. For the bold, there were the deep, "status" metallics like Obsidian Black Metallic and Merlot Red, designed to make sure everyone knew exactly who just claimed the premium pull-through spot.

Paint Health Check

Here's the reality from the spray booth: 2013 sits right in the heart of the Thin Paint Era. By this time, factory robots had become surgically efficient. They perfected the art of "lean application," which is just a fancy way of saying they sprayed the clear coat as thin as possible to save weight and material. While it looked like a mirror on the showroom floor, ten years of sun exposure on a 45-foot fiberglass shell is a lot to ask of a thin finish. You're likely dealing with "Robot Efficiency" fallout-specifically on the upper roof radius and front caps where the sun hits hardest. If you've got a chip in your Smoke Metallic or Nimbus Gray Met, that clear coat is looking for any excuse to start delaminating. Once the seal is broken, the clear can lift away in sheets, leaving your basecoat defenseless.

Restoration Tip

Because these 2013 finishes are lean, you have to be tactical with your repairs. Build your layers slowly; do not blob it. When you're filling a chip, resist the urge to fill the entire crater in one go. Our solvent-based formula is high-strength and bites hard into the existing finish, but if you apply it too thick, the solvents can't flash off properly, leaving you with a soft "mud-crack" look. Apply thin, successive layers, allowing each one to tack up before adding the next. This mimics the factory's multi-stage depth without the risk of a "blob" that will catch the light and scream "touch-up job." Once you're level, let it cure fully before any light leveling-you're working with a thin factory clear, so don't go in with a heavy-duty compound or you'll burn through the original finish before you even start.