1956 Chrysler Touch Up Paint (20 OEM Colors)

The 1956 Chrysler Vibe

In 1956, Virgil Exner's "Forward Look" was in full swing, and Chrysler wasn't just building cars-they were building low-flying jets with enough chrome to be seen from orbit. Whether you were piloting a top-tier New Yorker or a sleek Windsor, the name of the game was presence. With 20 different colors in our database, it's clear Chrysler didn't believe in subtlety. This was the era of the legendary 300B and those wild two-tone (and even three-tone) "St. Regis" paint schemes. We're talking about head-turners like Desert Rose, Geranium Red, and the high-society flash of Nugget Gold Poly. If you weren't causing a stir at the drive-in, you weren't doing it right.

Paint Health Check

Now, listen close, because we are firmly in the Single Stage Era. Back in '56, we didn't have a plastic-wrap clear coat to hide behind. The color was the protection. But here's the problem: without that top layer, your paint is naked against the sun. If that Crown Blue Poly or Turquoise looks dull and "chalky" today, that's oxidation-the paint is literally dying on the vine. This era of paint is porous; it breathes, it ages, and it gets thirsty. If you rub a cloth on your Raven Black fender and it comes back gray, you aren't just cleaning dirt-you're wiping away what's left of your finish.

Restoration Tip

The golden rule for 1956 iron is simple: It needs wax or it dies. Because there's no clear coat, you have to provide the barrier yourself. If you're touching up a chip in your Glacier Blue, don't just slap the paint on and walk away. You need to clean off that "dead skin" (oxidation) first so the new paint actually has something to bite into. Once your repair is cured, you've got to seal the whole deal. Think of a high-quality wax as the life-support system for your Chrysler's skin. It keeps the moisture out and the oils in. Skip the wax, and you'll be watching your hard work turn back into a chalkboard by next summer.