2003 Chrysler Touch Up Paint (44 OEM Colors)

The 2003 Chrysler Vibe

Welcome to 2003-the year Chrysler decided every driveway needed either a retro-future PT Cruiser or the brand-new Pacifica "crossover." It was a time of serious ambition in the styling department. While the 300M and the Concorde were holding down the "cab-forward" legacy, the Sebring Convertible was busy being the unofficial car of every rental fleet in Florida. We've got 17 shades in the archives from this vintage, and man, they weren't shy. You had head-turners like Electric Blue Pearl and Satin Jade Pearl rubbing elbows with the "sophisticated" stuff like Linen Gold Pearl Metallic and enough Bright Silver Metallic to coat a space station. It was a high-water mark for variety, even if the tech under the hood was... let's just say, "character-building."

Paint Health Check

Now, let's talk turkey about the "Peeling Era." If you're staring at a 2003 Chrysler today, you're likely dealing with the Great Delamination. This was the peak of the industry's struggle with clear coat adhesion. Those beautiful pearls-looking at you, Butane Blue and Steel Blue-look like a million bucks until the clear coat decides it's had enough of the sun and starts flaking off like a bad sunburn. Once that top layer lifts, the basecoat underneath is about as protected as a paper suit in a rainstorm. If your roof or trunk lid looks like it's "shedding its skin," you've got classic clear coat failure. It's the era's Achilles' heel: the paint looks deep and glossy right up until the moment it starts falling off in sheets.

Restoration Tip

The golden rule for 2003 iron: Seal those chips immediately. In this era, a stone chip isn't just an eyesore; it's an entry point. Once moisture and air get between the basecoat and that clear layer at the edge of a chip, the delamination process accelerates. You'll go from a tiny speck to a dinner-plate-sized peel in one summer. Use a high-quality touch-up to bridge the gap between the clear and the color as soon as you spot a hit. If you're working with the metallics like Silver Metallic or Stone White, don't just "blob" it on-clean the edges of the chip first so the new paint actually bites. You're not just fixing a spot; you're holding the rest of the clear coat hostage so it stays on the car where it belongs.