2010 Dodge Touch Up Paint (76 OEM Colors)

The 2010 Dodge Vibe

By 2010, Dodge was finally done apologizing for the 90s. This was the year they leaned hard into the "High Impact" nostalgia that made Mopar famous in the first place. Whether you were hauling the family in a Grand Caravan or terrorizing the stoplight in a Challenger or Charger, the palette was loud, proud, and slightly aggressive. Our database is packed with 76 distinct shades from this era-we're talking everything from the neon-soaked Snakeskin Green Pearl and Plum Crazy Effect to the deep, metallic grit of Mango Tango Pearl and Deep Water Blue. Even the Ram Trucks and Dakotas were getting in on the action with shades like Rugged Brown Pearl. It was a time of serious variety, but beneath that flashy Hemi Orange, the factory was changing the way they did things.

Paint Health Check

Welcome to the Thin Paint Era. By 2010, the "Robot Efficiency" at the factory had been tuned to a razor's edge. These machines became masters at applying the absolute minimum amount of paint required to make a Nitro or Avenger look shiny on the showroom floor. The reality? Your factory clear coat is likely only about as thick as a couple of sticky notes. Because these layers are so thin, they are brittle. If you've got a Journey or a Caliber that's spent a decade on the highway, you're likely seeing "road rash"-thousands of tiny pin-hole chips on the leading edges. Once a chip hits that thin base layer, moisture moves in, and the clear coat starts to lift away from the color like a bad sunburn.

Restoration Tip

When you're touching up a 2010 Dodge, remember: **Build layers slowly; don't blob it.** Because the factory paint is so thin, a single heavy drop of touch-up paint will sit on the surface like a mountain, making the repair more obvious than the original chip. You want to use a fine-tipped brush or applicator to fill the crater halfway, let it dry, and then come back for a second pass. You're trying to match a finish that was applied by a high-precision robot, so patience is your only tool. If you're working on those high-metallic pearls like Blackberry Pearl or Dark Titanium, multiple thin layers are the only way to get the metallic flakes to lay down correctly and catch the light without looking like a dark smudge.