2010 GMC Touch Up Paint (76 OEM Colors)

The 2010 GMC Vibe

2010 was a year of "Professional Grade" muscle and the dawn of the crossover craze. While the brand-new Terrain was busy making its debut, the Sierra and Yukon were still the undisputed kings of the job site and the carpool lane. With a massive palette of 76 colors in our database, GMC wasn't just selling trucks; they were selling variety. You had everything from the workhorse Olympic White to the sophisticated Carbon Flash Metallic and the surprisingly bold Inferno Orange Metallic. It was an era where a truck could be a luxury suite or a mud-slinger, and the paint reflected that dual identity with deep pearls like White Diamond Tricoat and rugged metallics like Sheer Silver.

Paint Health Check

Welcome to the peak of the Thin Paint Era. By 2010, the factory robots had become so efficient at their jobs that they were practically applying paint with a magnifying glass. These finishes look fantastic when they're fresh, but because the coats are so lean, they don't have much of a "soul" to give back once they start to age. If you're looking at a 2010 Acadia or Savana today, the clear coat on the hood and roof is likely the first thing to go-it gets brittle from the sun and starts to flake off in sheets because there just isn't enough "meat" in the film to stay flexible. You'll also notice "crow's feet" cracking in the darker metallics, a sign that the thin clear has finally surrendered to the elements.

Restoration Tip

When you're touching up a 2010 GMC, you have to respect the robot's precision. Because the factory finish is so thin, a heavy "blob" of touch-up paint will stick out like a sore thumb. Build your layers slowly. Instead of one thick coat, use a fine-tipped applicator to place a tiny dot of color in the chip, let it flash off, and repeat until the level is just below the surrounding surface. For metallics like Cyber Gray or All Terrain Blue, this "thin-to-win" approach is the only way to keep the flakes from bunching up and looking like a dark spot. Finish with a steady, thin layer of clear to seal the deal, but don't get over-aggressive with the sandpaper afterward-you don't have much factory clear left to play with.