1993 Honda-Motorcycle Touch Up Paint (3 OEM Colors)

The 1993 Honda-Motorcycle Vibe

1993 was a hell of a year for Honda. We're talking about the era when the CBR900RR Fireblade was busy rewriting the rulebook on sportbikes and the GL1500 Goldwing was the undisputed king of the open road. When you think of a '93 Honda, you aren't thinking about "efficiency"-you're thinking about depth. Our database has narrowed the field down to the three heavy hitters that actually survived the decade: Candy Spectra Red Tricoat, Gloss Black, and White Tricoat. These weren't just colors; they were multi-stage statements. That Candy Red looked like you could reach your hand right into the tank, and the White Tricoat had a pearl pop that made every other bike in the parking lot look like it was painted with a house roller.

Paint Health Check

Now, here's the reality check from the booth: your '93 is sitting square in the middle of the "Peeling Era." By the early 90s, everyone had switched to the basecoat/clearcoat system, but the chemistry hadn't quite caught up to the ambition. On a 30-year-old Honda, that clear coat is tired. It's been baked by the sun and probably splashed with more than its fair share of high-octane fuel. You'll know the end is near when the edges of your tank or fairings start looking "cloudy" or "frosted." That's delamination, kid. Once that clear starts flaking off in sheets like a bad sunburn, the factory color underneath is defenseless. If you've got a red bike, you're already fighting UV fade; if the clear goes, that red is going to turn pink faster than you can click into sixth gear.

Restoration Tip

If you still have original paint on that frame, you're sitting on a relic, so treat it like one. The golden rule for 1993 tech is simple: seal your chips immediately. In this era of paint, a tiny rock chip isn't just a blemish-it's an entry point for moisture and air to get between the color and the clear. Once they separate, the "lift" will spread like a virus. Don't wait for a full respray. Dab those chips with our matched basecoat and a solid layer of clear to lock the edges down. And when you're working with these Tricoats (the Red and the White), remember that the "depth" comes from your mid-coat. Go with light, patient passes; don't try to find the color all at once or you'll end up with a blotchy mess that ruins the factory "flop."