1989 Infiniti Touch Up Paint (16 OEM Colors)

thought I will search for automotive paint technology in 1989, specifically focusing on whether it was single stage or clear coat for luxury Japanese brands like Infiniti. Then, I will look for common Infiniti paint quality issues from the 1989-1990 era, such as peeling clear coat, fading, or rust. I will also research popular car color trends in 1989 to contextualize the "Black Obsidian" color and the overall aesthetic. Finally, I will write the "Paint Time Capsule" for the 1989 Infiniti using the "Salty Painter" persona and the PAS framework, ensuring I follow the logic branch for 1985-2005 ("The Peeling Era") and avoid mentioning water-based or eco-friendly paints.

The 1989 Infiniti Vibe

Welcome to 1989, the year Japan decided to take the European luxury establishment out back and show them how a real flagship is built. This was the birth of Infiniti, a world of "Zen" marketing and the thunderous debut of the Q45 and the sleek M30. While the Germans were busy being clinical, Infiniti was trying to make paint look like liquid jewelry. In our database, we've focused on the ultimate survivor of that era: Black Obsidian. It wasn't just a color; it was a statement of intent. If you weren't driving an Infiniti in a deep, bottomless black back then, were you even really at the country club?

Paint Health Check

You're currently cruising through The Peeling Era. By 1989, the industry had fully committed to the basecoat/clearcoat system to get that high-gloss, showroom depth. It looked spectacular when the Q45 first rolled off the boat, but here's the rub: 1980s clear coat tech hadn't quite mastered the art of staying attached to the basecoat for thirty-plus years. You're likely looking at Delamination-where the clear coat decides it's tired of its relationship with the color underneath and starts lifting in ugly, flaky white sheets. Once that "sunburn" starts on the roof or trunk, the clock is ticking.

Restoration Tip

The secret to keeping an '89 Infiniti looking like a boardroom brawler is aggressive prevention. Because this era is prone to the clear lifting, you have to seal every rock chip the second you see it. If moisture or air gets under the edge of a chip, it acts like a wedge, slowly prying the clear coat away from the Black Obsidian base. Use a fine-tipped applicator to fill those divots; you want to bridge the gap between the color and the clear to lock everything down before the "peel" starts its slow crawl across your hood.