2010 Itasca Touch Up Paint (13 OEM Colors)

The 2010 Itasca Vibe

By 2010, the Itasca lineup wasn't just a collection of motorhomes; they were "Executive Suites on Wheels." This was the era of the sophisticated neutral. We're talking 13 high-end shades dominated by what I call the "Corporate Jet" palette. If you were rolling a 2010 Suncruiser or Meridian, you were likely draped in Mojave Mist Metallic, Iron Gray, or Charcoal Metallic II. It was a time when silver was the undisputed king of the road, and Itasca leaned in hard with Brilliant Silver Metallic and Pewter. It was a professional, polished look that said you had arrived-and you probably had a GPS unit the size of a toaster to prove it.

Paint Health Check

Welcome to the Thin Paint Era. By 2010, factory robots had become masters of "Efficiency," which is just a polite way of saying they got real stingy with the spray. These coaches were finished with a clear coat that is often thinner than a sheet of notebook paper. The look is deep and glossy when it's new, but those thin layers are vulnerable. If you're looking at your Itasca today, check the front cap and the roof radius. You're likely seeing "Robot Fatigue"-tiny rock chips that punch straight through to the substrate and clear coat that starts to flake off in high-UV areas once those thin blockers give up the ghost.

Restoration Tip

When you're touching up a 2010 finish, remember: Build layers, don't blob. Because this era used such thin factory coats, a heavy "one-and-done" glob of touch-up paint will stick out like a sore thumb against that tight, flat factory surface. For those metallic shades like Smoke Metallic or Gold, apply your color in three or four whisper-thin passes, letting it tack up in between. This helps the metallic flakes lay down correctly so they catch the light the same way the original paint does. If you try to fill a chip in one shot, the silver bits will sink to the bottom, and you'll end up with a dark spot that looks more like a grease stain than a repair.