1970 Jaguar Touch Up Paint (12 OEM Colors)

The 1970 Jaguar Vibe

Welcome to 1970, where the "Swinging Sixties" were nursing a hangover and Jaguar was leaning hard into a sophisticated, earthy elegance. Whether you were piloting a Series 2 E-Type or the then-new XJ6, the color palette was shifting. We've got 12 of the era's heavy hitters in our database, and they tell a story of a brand in transition. You had the high-octane holdovers like Signal Red and British Racing Green, but the real 1970 flavor was found in the "New Earth" tones. Colors like Sable-which is basically the color of a very expensive cigar-and the muted, mossy Willow Green were the height of Coventry cool. It was a time when a Jaguar didn't just arrive; it materialized out of the British fog in a coat of Ascot Gray or Pale Primrose.

Paint Health Check

In 1970, we were firmly in the Single Stage Era. This was the real deal-high-solids synthetic enamel that went on thick and stayed solvent-rich for years. There's no clear coat here to act as a sacrificial lamb; the pigment is the frontline soldier. The "Legend" of this paint is its incredible depth, but the reality is Oxidation. If a 1970 Jag has spent too much time under the sun, that deep Regency Red or Dark Blue will start to "chalk." It turns from a mirror-finish to a dull, dusty blackboard. Because the paint is porous, it literally breathes; if it dries out, the pigment dies, and you're left with a finish that looks more like a weathered barn than a luxury grand tourer.

Restoration Tip

This paint is "old school" thirsty. If you're seeing that chalky fade, don't panic-it's usually just the top layer of pigment giving up the ghost. Because this is single-stage, you can actually "shave" off the oxidation with a fine polishing compound to reveal the fresh, vibrant color hiding underneath. But listen to your old pal: It needs wax or it dies. Once you've brought back the shine on that Silver Gray Metallic or Willow Green, you have to seal it. A high-quality carnauba wax is your best friend here. It acts as the "clear coat" the factory never gave it, keeping the oils in and the oxygen out. Skip the wax, and you'll be buffing it again by next season.