1993 Lund Touch Up Paint (11 OEM Colors)

The 1993 Lund Vibe

Welcome to 1993. Nirvana is on the radio, everyone is wearing flannel, and the 2250 Genmar or the Pro-V are the absolute kings of the local boat ramp. It was a time of transition for the industry, moving away from the flat hues of the 80s into the shimmering metallic glory of the early 90s. Our database tracks 10 iconic survivors from this year, and let's be honest-it was the peak era for colors like Forest Green and Cobalt Blue Metallic. Whether you were rocking Sand Beach to blend into the shore or Red Reef to stand out in the wake, these boats were built with a "big toy" attitude and a heavy dose of 90s flash.

Paint Health Check

Now, let's get real. If you're looking at a 1993 Lund today, you're staring at a survivor of "The Peeling Era." In the early 90s, manufacturers were perfected the transition to basecoat/clearcoat systems, but the technology hadn't quite figured out how to fight off 30 years of UV rays and dock scrapes. The biggest threat to your Graphite Gray or Pewter finish is delamination. Once a rock chip or a deep scratch breaks that clear coat seal, the sun starts getting underneath it, and your clear coat begins to flake off like a bad sunburn. If your Artic White looks a bit chalky or your metallics are starting to go "milky," that's the clear coat telling you it's tired of fighting the elements alone.

Restoration Tip

The secret to saving a '93 finish is to stop the "unzipping" effect. In this era of paint, once the clear coat lifts at the edge of a chip, it's only a matter of time before it takes the whole panel with it. My advice? Seal your chips immediately. Don't wait for the weekend. Use a high-quality solvent-based touch-up to bond those edges back down to the basecoat. By filling those nicks in your Medium Red or Black hull now, you're creating a mechanical bridge that keeps the clear coat from delaminating further. Treat it like a small leak in a dam-plug it now, or prepare to repaint the whole thing later.