2004 Lund Touch Up Paint (12 OEM Colors)

The 2004 Lund Vibe

Welcome to 2004, the era of low-rise jeans, iPod Minis, and Outkast blasting from boat speakers. Whether you were rocking a Pro-V, a Baron, or an Alaskan, Lund was leaning hard into the "metallic" craze of the mid-2000s. We've got 11 specific shades in our vault for this year, and let me tell you, it was a silver-and-earth-tone world. Quick Silver was the undisputed king of the dock, while Pewter and Sand Beach were the go-to choices for the guys who wanted to hide a little lake grime. If you were feeling flashy, you went for Red Reef or that deep Cobalt Blue Metallic-colors that looked like a million bucks under a showroom light.

Paint Health Check

If you're staring at a 2004 Lund today, you're looking at a prime survivor of The Peeling Era. Back then, manufacturers had mastered the "wet look" clear coat, but they hadn't quite perfected the UV bond. After twenty years of sun and spray, these finishes are prone to delamination. You'll see it first as a cloudy white haze on the top of the gunwales or near the transom. Once that clear coat loses its grip on the base color, it starts shedding like a snake. If you see a "crusty" edge where the paint looks like it's lifting in a thin, plastic-like sheet, you've got clear coat failure. At that point, the base paint is basically naked and defenseless.

Restoration Tip

Here's the deal: you have to seal those chips immediately. In this era of paint, once moisture gets under the edge of the clear coat, it acts like a wedge, lifting the rest of the finish off the hull. Don't wait for a full restoration-grab a high-quality solvent-based touch-up and bridge that gap. When you're filling a chip on something like Graphite Gray or Forest Green, make sure you overlap the surrounding clear coat slightly. This "caps" the edge and prevents the delamination from spreading further. It's the difference between a five-minute fix today and a three-thousand-dollar strip-and-spray next summer.