1993 Mitsubishi Touch Up Paint (61 OEM Colors)

The 1993 Mitsubishi Vibe

In 1993, Mitsubishi was at the peak of its "over-engineered" phase. Whether you were carving canyons in a 3000GT VR-4 with active aero, or bouncing through a desert in a Montero, the brand was dripping with tech. This was the era of the high-end pearl finish, a look that shouted "Japanese Bubble Economy" luxury. We've focused our collection on the essential survivors of that year-the colors that actually stood the test of time, like the iconic Galaxy White Pearl Tricoat and the deep, ink-like Kalapana Black. 1993 was less about the neon-splash of the late 80s and more about a clean, sophisticated palette of whites and blacks that let the aggressive lines of the Eclipse and the Galant do the talking.

Paint Health Check

If you're looking at a 1993 Mitsubishi today, you're looking at a survivor of the "Delamination Era." By the early 90s, the industry had fully committed to basecoat/clearcoat systems, but the clear coat technology hadn't quite caught up to the intensity of the sun. On these cars, especially the horizontal surfaces like the roof and the hood, the clear coat is prone to "frosting"-that chalky, white lifting that makes it look like your car is shedding its skin. Once the clear coat fails, the underlying pigment (especially in Sophia White or Northstar White) loses its protection and begins to oxidize into a flat, dusty mess. It's a race against time; if the clear starts to bubble, the metal is next.

Restoration Tip

When repairing a 1993 finish, you have to treat the clear coat failure as a structural issue. If you're dealing with the Galaxy White Pearl Tricoat, remember: this is a three-layer process (ground coat, pearl mid-coat, and clear). You can't just "blob" a white pen on it and call it a day. To get that factory depth back, you need to feather the edges of the failing clear coat with a fine-grit sandpaper until the transition is smooth. Seal the chip immediately to stop the "lifting" effect. If the clear coat is still intact but looks dull, a high-solvent cleaning followed by a dedicated sealant is the only way to keep that 30-year-old finish from becoming a total respray project.