1991 Nissan Touch Up Paint (40 OEM Colors)

The 1991 Nissan Vibe

Welcome to 1991-the year Nissan decided to show the world they weren't just making commuters; they were making legends. It was the era of the "bubble economy" engineering, where the 300ZX Twin Turbo reigned as a technological masterclass and the 240SX was just a sporty daily driver, years away from its future as the king of the drift track. Whether you were hauling gear in a rugged Pathfinder, cruising in a quirky Figaro, or tearing up the pavement in a Sentra SE-R, there was a specific "new car smell" that only early-90s Japanese vinyl and fresh solvent-based paint could produce. In our vault, we've preserved the absolute essentials that defined this year: the high-impact Aztec Red, the clinical Super White, the deep Black, and the stealthy Dark Gray (matt). These weren't just colors; they were the war paint of a brand at its peak.

Paint Health Check

If you're looking at a 1991 factory finish today, you're likely witnessing the "The Peeling Era" in its final, flaky glory. By 1991, Nissan had moved heavily into the basecoat/clearcoat system, but the tech was still in its awkward teenage years. While the 300ZX might have received the premium treatment, models like the Sentra and the Truck often suffered from "delamination"-that's painter-speak for the clear coat deciding it doesn't want to be friends with the color coat anymore. If your Aztec Red looks like it's got a bad sunburn or your Super White is flaking off in chunks the size of a postage stamp, you've got clear coat failure. The pigment underneath is often still vibrant, but once that protective top layer lifts, the clock starts ticking toward a date with a sander.

Restoration Tip

The secret to keeping a '91 Nissan looking sharp is aggression at the first sign of trouble. Because this era is prone to delamination, you must seal chips immediately before the clear coat starts to lift at the edges. Once air and moisture get under that clear layer, it acts like a sail in a hurricane-it's going to pull the rest of the finish right off the panel. When you're touching up your 240SX or Maxima, don't just "blob" the paint on. Clean the chip, lay down your base color, and if the surrounding clear is still healthy, make sure your repair overlaps the edge slightly to "lock" it down. If you're working with the Dark Gray (matt), remember: no buffing! You'll turn that tactical finish into a shiny mess faster than a Turbo Z hits 60.