2000 Subaru Touch Up Paint (30 OEM Colors)

The 2000 Subaru Vibe

Back in the year 2000, we weren't just worried about the Y2K bug; we were busy watching Subaru reinvent the "utilitarian cool" with the Outback and the Forester. This was the era of the weekend warrior, where a Legacy or an Impreza wasn't just a car-it was a mud-covered badge of honor. While the rest of the world was experimenting with weird metallics, Subaru stayed grounded. We've focused our attention on the real survivors of the era: the workhorse Pure White, the high-energy Brilliant Red, and that iconic Two-Tone (51E/M6066) that defined every "Limited" trim in the parking lot of your local trailhead.

Paint Health Check

We call 2000 the heart of The Peeling Era. By this point, the industry had fully committed to the basecoat/clearcoat system, but the chemistry hadn't quite caught up to the UV rays. If your Subaru spent its life outside, you're likely dealing with delamination. That's the "salty painter" term for when the clear coat decides it's done being friends with the color underneath and starts flaking off like a bad sunburn. Once that clear lifts on the roof or the hood, the basecoat is unprotected and starts to "chalk out" fast. If you see white, splotchy edges around your paint chips, your clear is already planning its escape.

Restoration Tip

The secret to a 2000-era repair is sealing the transition. Because this paint is notoriously thin and prone to lifting, you can't just blob paint into a chip and hope for the best. You need to lightly sand the "cliff" where the clear coat has failed until it's smooth to the touch. Use our solvent-based color to rebuild the pigment layer, but here's the pro move: seal those edges immediately with a quality clear. If you're working on a two-tone Outback, don't try to "eye-ball" the blend-use a hard tape line at the trim transition to keep that factory-fresh contrast between the upper body and the lower cladding.