2010 Tesla Touch Up Paint (7 OEM Colors)

The 2010 Tesla Vibe

Back in 2010, Tesla was the new kid on the block with a point to prove, and they did it with the Roadster. This wasn't the "white or black" minimalist fleet we see today; this was the era of high-end, sports-car sophistication. We've focused on the survivors of this pioneer age, curating the heavy hitters like Signature Red Tricoat and Sequoia Green Metallic. These colors were meant to look like they belonged on a high-stakes garage shelf in Silicon Valley-deep, metallic, and expensive. When you see a Pacific Blue Metallic Roadster today, you're looking at a piece of electric history that refused to fade into the background.

Paint Health Check

Welcome to the Thin Paint Era. By 2010, "Robot Efficiency" had become the industry's favorite buzzword. The machines in the booth became so precise at shaving off weight and cost that they started applying clear coats thinner than a politician's promise. On these early Teslas, you've got a finish that looks like a million bucks but has the structural thickness of a soap bubble. The big issue? Rock chips. Because the paint is so lean, every pebble on the highway acts like a miniature ball-peen hammer. If the nose of your car looks like it's been through a light sandblasting, it's not because you're a bad driver-it's because those robots were a little too stingy with the spray.

Restoration Tip

When you're fixing a chip on Sunset Red or Twilight Blue Metallic, you have to be smarter than the robot. Since the factory coat is so thin, you cannot-I repeat, cannot-just blob a giant drop of paint into a chip and hope for the best. It'll shrink, it'll look like a zit, and it won't level out. You need to build your layers slowly. Dab a tiny amount, let it flash, and repeat until you've reached the surface. You're looking for a surgical repair that mimics that factory-thin profile. If you treat it with patience instead of haste, you'll match that 2010 depth without leaving a "hill" on your hood.