2013 Yamaha Background Info
The 2013 Yamaha Vibe
Welcome to 2013-the year the world didn't end, and Yamaha decided to lean hard into "sophisticated speed." This was the era of the refined FJR1300, the "Dark Side of Japan" whispers that led to the MT-09, and the peak of the Star cruiser lineup like the Stratoliner. We've focused our database on the true survivors of this year: the deep, moody Black Cherry, the upscale Light Gold, and of course, the king of the midnight street, Raven (DBC 906478). This wasn't just paint; it was a vibe designed to look fast even when the bike was on its kickstand at a rainy diner.
Paint Health Check
By 2013, we were deep into the Thin Paint Era. The factory robots were calibrated with surgical precision to apply just enough base and clear to look gorgeous on the showroom floor, but they didn't leave much "meat on the bone" for the long haul. If you've been riding your R1 or Super Tenere the way it was intended, you're likely staring at a fairing full of "robot-efficiency" scars. Because the coats were applied so thin, rock chips tend to go straight to the primer, and the clear coat on high-friction areas-like where your knees hug the tank-is probably getting paper-thin by now.
Restoration Tip
When you're touching up these 2013 finishes, remember: build layers slowly; don't blob it. Since the factory finish is inherently thin, a heavy-handed application will stick out like a sore thumb. Treat your repair like the factory did-several light, patient passes are better than one thick glob. If you're working with Raven or Black Cherry, keep in mind that those metallic and pearl depths need light to dance, so don't bury the pigment under too much un-leveled clear. Level your repair gently with high-grit wet sanding, and whatever you do, don't sand through the surrounding factory clear-there isn't much of it to spare.